Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 22

Got to Temple 28 today. The blisters are slowing me down, otherwise I would have done 29 too. I'll do that tomorrow (plus 30) with just my day pack, and I'm doing only 10K with the pack on.

Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 21

Staying near Nishibun Station tonight, about halfway between Temples 27 and 28.

Also I am at 1/4 of the total distance I'll be going!

Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 20

Made it to Tonohama Hostel, a soon-to-be member of the new Henro House network. I dropped off my big bag, and took a day pack up to Temple 27. Quite a mountain. There's also a super special awesome shrine up there, and an observation deck.

Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 19

Temple 25 done in the wee morning hours (7:30), up a small mountain to 26, then down. Onward to Tano town, where trains became a thing again! I sleep now.

Or wait, I'm adding a bit more this time. I want to talk about the human body, boys and girls, and how weird and stupid it is sometimes.

I was doing well today, till maybe an hour after lunch. I started dragging, thought I needed a pick-me-up. So I stopped at a cafe, got some ice coffee and a snack. Rested for a good 20 minutes. Back on the road and I felt as bad as ever. What the hell? So I take inventory and discover I have 2 small blisters on my left foot. I take care of them like a pro. (That's probably something a pro would say, right? Right.)

I get all myself back together and hit the road again. Immediately my left foot is in pain. How was it I was only in pain *after* treating those ungrateful feet and not before? I realize the answer as I keep walking. My full-body exhaustion is gone. It tingles as I literally feel the weariness leaving my body like an excorsized demon. Even though I was now having stabs of pain every time I took a step, it was way better than the exhaustion. The pain was maybe a 2/10, an annoyance. The exhaustion, on the other hand, made me feel like giving up.

My theory is that when your body is too busy dealing with one type of pain all the time (exhaustion from walking) other types of pain get ignored. So in order to make themselves known, they masquerade as the type of pain that's getting all the attention.

The moral of the story is: don't assume pain is what it claims to be. Check your body for other possibilities.

Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 18

I almost forgot my temple routine, it's been so long. Number 24 today, and I'm staying close to 25 so I'll get that one first thing tomorrow.

Cape Muroto is pretty sweet too. I should upload some pictures soon before I forget what's what.

Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 17

I didn't walk too far today, but it was far enough. I'll get to Muroto Cape and Temple 24 tomorrow. For tonight I'll be falling asleep to the waves.

Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 16

Took the ferry back from Tebajima to Mugi, then walked through rain and darkness to Toyo. I'm now in Kochi prefecture!

Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 15

Yesterday I took a rest day like I planned, only visited Temple 23 and walked around the town of Hiwasa. They have a nice hot spring on the balcony of the cliffside hotel.

Today I walked to Mugi, and took a ferry to the island of Tebajima. There are no cars here, and only about 70 people. I stayed with Kazuhiko Nishi at his guest house Shanty Shanty.

Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 13

Walked from Temple 22 to Hiwasa, near Temple 23. It was too late to visit when I got here but I'll go tomorrow. By chance I ran into a couple British pilgrims I met earlier and they introduced me to a French/Japanese couple who run an inn here. So that's where I'm staying!  Had pizza for dinner, you know, traditional Japanese stuff.

Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 12

Walked up a decent mountain to Temple 21, then down and went to Temple 22. Staying in a town called Yuki.

Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 11

Trekked to Temple 19, through the windiest valley ever, then up a smallish mountain to Temple 20. After coming down I'm using my tent for the first time on this trip. I'm on the grounds of an unused elementary school! Sounds a lot creepier than it is.

Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 10

Finally I'm back on the road, after a 3 day break.

Today I climbed the lowest natural mountain in mountain in Japan (Bentenyama, 6.1 meters) and got a free ramen lunch. Went to Temple 18 and I'm staying in a traditional inn nearby.

Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 6

I backtracked to Temples 15 and 16 yesterday with my day pack, then went onward to Temple 17. After that, made it a short day and stayed near Tokushima Station last night. I'm taking a day off in Tokushima City today, maybe 2.

Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 5

A long day! After an early hill, lots of sweet scenery. Temples 13 and 14. Almost made it to 15 but was too late. I'll backtrack to it tomorrow. Staying at a free room run by a taxi company in Tokushima city. It's super nice, even has a TV!

Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 4

Temple 11 down. Temple 12 down. Me? Not down. Until I went to a hot spring and had my molecules dissolved until I was a being of pure energy. That was the religious experience I was waiting for. Sleeping back in a mostly-not-sore, mostly-blister-free mortal body once more. Also this body is stuffed with curry and rice. Thank you, Sudachi-kan!

Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 3

Temples 8, 9, 10, then staying at an awesome hot spring which has a free shed for pilgrims! My sore muscles melted away.

Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 2

I'm going at a pretty slow pace but that's okay. I visited temples 5, 6, and 7. Had noodles for lunch and then headed back in the rain to temple 6, where I left my backpack. Tonight I'm calling it an early night and staying in the bell tower, which is the second floor of the entrance gate.

Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 1

I got the official pilgrim gear (pictures later) and walked temples 1 through 4. I backtracked a bit to stay in the town of Itano. It was supposed to rain today but didn't, so I call that a good start.

Shikoku Pilgrimage Start!

Today I took the train from Tokushima to Bando Station and started walking from there. If all goes well I won't set foot in a train, car, bus, or plane for 2 months! Maybe a hovercraft though, because who could turn down a hovercraft ride?